<<<  Pedal Assembly Removal  >>>

Theory:  There is a section of the pedal assembly bracket which holds the clutch cable sheath back.  Unfortunately, this area is weak and prone to breaking, as it did in my case.  Well, turns out removing and replacing the pedal assembly isn't the easiest thing to do without instructions, so I decided to write a tech note on how to do it.  Special thanks to Dave Ewing for helping me along when I didn't have anything else to go by.
 
(Click for larger images)  
First, remove the storage tray under your dash if you still have it installed.  Four screws does it, shown by green arrows in the image.  Then remove the large under-dash panel; the red arrow and line in the image represent where to look for screws and rivets holding this in.
Now remove the clutch cable from the end of the clutch pedal.  The best way I can suggest to do this is to loosen the cable as much as possible (if you have the manually adjustable cable) then have a strong friend pull up on the clutch lever (where the other end of the cable connects to the transmission) while you slip the cable off the pedal. 
Next, remove the brake pushrod from the brake pedal.  There is a pin that holds it on, with a retaining clip attached to it.  If you just tap the pin out, the retaining clip should just pop free.
Here's a picture of the brake pushrod retaining pin/clip so you have a better idea of how to remove it.
Now remove the plate that secures the pedal assembly against the steering column.  Just pry on it with a large screwdriver (cover your eyes, that puppy flies out of there!).
Here's a picture of the plate removed...  When reinstalling, put the top tabs in first, then use lots of force to get the bottom to snap into place.
Now remove the brake switch.  To remove it, grab it with a pair of pliers and twist it until it pops loose, then wiggle it out.
Time to drop the steering column... First you'll have to remove the small plastic panel under the steering column to get access to all of the bolts.  There are four bolts attaching the steering column, all 6 mm hex and with two washers each.  Once you remove them, I suggest sliding the seat forward a bit and resting the steering wheel on it so you don't put any stress on the wires connected to the column. (Or you could just disconnect all the wires!)
Now remove the nut anchoring the pedal assembly from the top.  You'll need a 13 mm socket and a 6 inch extension to get at this one.



 		 OK, that's everything you need to remove from the interior to get the bracket out, now it's time to free the nuts that are in the engine bay.
First, remove the intake boot and move the coolant tank to the side.  You'll need plenty of room to work.
If your bracket isn't broken like mine was, there is a grommet attached to the metal cylinder of the bracket that holds the clutch cable.  Also, there should be a sealing washer and clamping washer around the end of the clutch cable.  If yours are in bad shape, replace them, it may save your pedal assembly!
Here's a cutaway of the three pieces mentioned above, showing how they are assembled (pretend the right side of the picture is the firewall).  For reference, the teeth of the clamping washer (B) face the front of the car.  The part numbers are:
A.) sealing washer = 900 158 01
B.) clamping washer = 900 157 01
C.) grommet = 171 721 380
Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.  An 11 mm open end wrench takes care of these.  Be ready for excess brake fluid leakage.  I drained and removed the brake fluid reservoir first, but I don't know if that helped any.
Now we need to remove the nuts holding the brake vacuum booster to the bracket.  There are four nuts with washers, a 13 mm wrench removes them.  The arrows show their positioning, although you can't see them in the picture.  It's a tight space and tough to get the wrench in there; if you don't have a 13 mm ratcheting wrench, go buy one now - it'll make the job much easier.  And be careful you don't loose the washers!
Here's a picture of the back of the brake booster once removed, so you have a better idea of where to hunt for the nuts.  My thumb represents the top center of the booster.
The final step in getting the booster out is to disconnect the vacuum hose connected to it.  I just used cutting pliers and ripped the metal clamp apart (not pictured) - they aren't reusable anyway.  Go get a small hose clamp when reinstalling.




 		 Gently push the brake lines aside and remove the vacuum booster and master cylinder (as a whole) by pulling it straight forward as much as you can, then up and out.  You'll have to push aside the brake lines.  Another line that runs to the heater core was in my way, I was a little rough and just slid it under the booster.
Remove the rubber boot which was protecting the vacuum booster pushrod.  You may find that this is a real pain in the ass to get back in.
Now remove the bracket that the booster was attached to.  The same three nuts that hold this bracket on also hold the pedal assembly in place.  A 13 mm socket and a short extension takes care of these nuts.  Once again, be careful you don't lose the washers.  In the picture, they look impossible to reach, but don't worry, they're easy.
Now, you're left with a black metal plate sitting over two of the studs.  Remove this so it doesn't fall into the engine bay when you take the pedal assembly out.
That's it!  Go ahead and yank that pedal cluster out of there.  This picture shows the culprit in my case.  As you can see, the piece snapped off the edge of the bracket.  This seems to be a pretty common problem in higher mileage VWs.  Many people weld the broken bracket back together, but I just bought a used one that's in good condition.
And here's the mess you'll have sprawled on your garage floor...




 		 Installation is the reverse of removal.  Just make sure the pedal assembly and steering column line up properly before you tighten the nuts and bolts down. 

Oh yeah, DON'T forget to bleed the brakes once everything's back in place.

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